Haven’t posted anything recently, but I have been working – albeit slowly – on this neck. Clickitinate to embiggenify.
The headstock-to-neck area gave me some problems. Partly caused by not being able to plane the headstock to an even thickness using the Saf-T-Planer; my drill press really isn’t big enough to handle this piece.
Since the nut end was more-or-less the right profile, I worked on the body end.
There is probably a better way to do this.
I think the real solution is to not use maple for necks. I can tough it out for one custom neck, I guess.
A tiny tiny amount of work on the bass neck. Maple is a lot harder to carve than mahogany. And of course, the real job has forced a temporary relocation of the entire workforce (well, at least all that can be trusted with sharp tools.) So nothing is likely to happen for a while yet.
I was concerned about blowing out the front of the body while drilling the hole from the control cavity to the neck pickup cavity. Needn’t have worried, because Pythagoras. Below is the destination end.
Not contoured, but the outline is done. The blue tape is where there was some tearout; it’s to hold the patch in place until I glue it.
The brown tape is just a place to write notes. Just out of frame is my 4th version of the headstock template, which is what I ended up using.
In case you needed more confirmation, the masking tape trick really works. I used it to shape the outline of the neck.
Apply tape to both pieces and then superglue them together
Rout, using a template (flush-cutting) bit. Not aligned like it’s shown here; this is after the routing was done.
Peel it apart and remove the tape.
Not using masking tape, I also cut a template for the neck pocket and pickup routing on the body. Material is 1/2″ MDF.
Here’s another shot of the neck.
This is what a Saf-T-Planer leaves on the back of the headstock when you thin it. Not bad. No blood.
Cut the end off, split the cutoff bit, square it up with a block plane, glue, and clamp.
It sounds so easy when you see it written down like that.
Routed the truss rod slot for the bass.
1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep, and all I did was use a straight bit in the router table. Took 4 or 5 passes and came out pretty clean. I squared up the body end with a chisel but didn’t take a close-up photo. It’ll be hidden anyway.
It’s just a bit deeper than it needs to be – maybe 1/32″. I still need to widen the headstock end for the adjustment nut. Not sure whether I want to use a 3/8″ round-nose router bit, or a round file and do it by hand.
On a side note, it seems that Rocksmith 2014 is a lot pickier about intonation than I am. I know I’m 10 cents sharp at the 17th fret or so, but that’s enough for the software to detect it as a wrong note. So I’m starting to work on correcting it – note the lack of a spring on the low E string above.
Yeah, the real fix is to move the bridge back about a half-inch, but that would mean a new pick guard, and you’ll notice that the output jack is in the way. This was built during a class, and the real lesson is to make sure everything fits the way you want it before cutting holes. Also, check to see that they didn’t send you a Mustang neck instead of a Strat neck by mistake.