I finished putting drawers in the workbench back in November, but neglected to post anything about it at the time.

Oh, I do not like this new WordPress editor. Ah; found the old one. That’s better. I prefer to see the controls available to me, thank you very much.

Still progressing

Haven’t posted anything recently, but I have been working – albeit slowly – on this neck. Clickitinate to embiggenify.

The headstock-to-neck area gave me some problems. Partly caused by not being able to plane the headstock to an even thickness using the Saf-T-Planer; my drill press really isn’t big enough to handle this piece.

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Stuff to Make Stuff

Stuff that gets used to make other stuff is some of the best stuff to make.


If anyone is paying attention, you’ll notice that this is a different location than the previous photos. That’s because we moved the entire Slumco operation to a new facility.

As a result, we haven’t done anything productive at all. Other than this bench, of course. Nothing fancy  – pine two-by-fours, a sheet of MDF, some oak for trim. Held together with pocket screws. A couple of coats of clear polyurethane on the top.

There will be a cabinet unit underneath with drawers, but this is enough to work with for now.

Just because you can. . .

Sure, it’s possible to cut out your body shape with a handheld jigsaw.

Body rough cut

But it might not look too great.

not square

Or be quite square. Jigsaw blades aren’t that rigid, especially when you try to make them turn.

Router and template will be used to fix all that. Here’s the neck with position markers (MOP dots) inlaid.

neck with inlay

(I later realized that I’d purchased larger 1/4″ dots especially for this neck, but I’d forgotten about them until I’d already inlaid all these 5mm dots. Oh well.)

Slow going

Well, even with wedges to hold the saw kerf open, this is taking forever. . .

more resawing


. . . so I cut out a body template from some MDF I had.

bass body template

I still need to clean it up around the neck area, but I want to make the neck first so I know what size pocket to cut. But hey, progress!

Resaw the Hard Way

I know there must be better ways to do this, but they all seem to involve large bandsaws, which I don’t have.

Resawing the hard way

First you cut around the edges with the table saw (which really needs a tall fence to do it right) then use the resulting kerf as a guide for the handsaw. Simple, right? I figure if I take a few strokes every time I walk by, I’ll be done in a month or so.

In the future, I’ll try to remember to do this before gluing the halves together.

Not shiny

Wet sanded to P800 with soapy water. Not glossy, but no orange peel and really, really smooth.

Body wetsanded

More wet sanding next, at least to 2000 grit, then polishing. And if I polish with Micro-Mesh, which I might, then it’s not really any different from wet sanding.

Turkey Progress

Got a fair amount done over the Thanksgiving holidays.

Sanding the linings

Sanding the linings

Here’s the sides with kerfed lining installed, being sanded on our infinite-radius dish board. None of these wimpy fifteen- or twenty-foot radii for us.


Back, with braces installed but not yet carved. You carve them after gluing them down, because if you carve them first, the clamps slip off when you try to glue them. Thre is a semi-cylindrical arch sanded into the back braces (I think it’s a B-spline, technically) that, along with the neck-to-tail arch in the sides, gives a complex dome that’s not quite spherical to the completed back. This helps reflect the sound out to the front of the instrument while stiffening the back, which allows it to be thinner, lighter and more responsive.

But mainly because it looks good. Hey, if I had a motorized dish board, I’d use it, but I don’t.


Top, thinned to 0.070″ on average, marked with brace locations.


Top, rosette bits, and a wrench

Playing with rosette designs. Going with a contemporary design here; that’s padauk from the piece that was going to be the top but it’s too thin.