I’m not certain it took five months, but it was around that long. Not working continuously, of course.
I don’t feel like going into too much detail right now. It’s the Revell 1/72 F-101B Voodoo, this version was made in 1992. Decals are from Experts-Choice (which is the company that makes Bare Metal Foil). The kit decals were out of register, which means the red stripe in the insignia was noticeably off-center.
The only other aftermarket part is the pitot tube, from Master Models. (Is a decal sheet considered a part? Most contests allow aftermarket decals in basic kit build categories, but not brass or resin bits.) I used a canopy and wheel mask from KV models, but that’s definitely not a part.
The instructions, which I found somewhat vague, have you install the finished cockpit tub up through the missile bay after the fuselage halves are glued together. I broke parts off doing this which had to be reattached from above once the tub was in place. The front landing gear well was also rather fiddly, as you have to build a box with the gear strut sandwiched between the sides. The main gear attachment points were simple butt joints that I suspect will cause me problems in the future.
Otherwise a pretty decent build. The aftermarket bits — pitot, mask, and decals — all worked well for me. Paint is mostly Model Master Enamel, with Alclad for the exhausts.
One of the first kits I ever built was the old Monogram box-scale F-101, probably the 1970 or 1973 boxing, molded in blue plastic. So when I saw this at a show, I had to pick it up. (Well, okay, I didn’t have to, but I did anyway.)
Has it really been seven months since we’ve posted here? Not that anyone can tell, what with approximately one visitor to the site in that whole time.
So, that Klingon D-7 took a trip to the IPMS Nationals in Omaha back in July, where it was deservedly ignored. Sometime after that, it got accidentally knocked off a shelf and the boom popped off. Since it was only held on with CA glue, it was a clean break and easily repaired.
In the meantime, I finished this Eduard 1/48 Sopwith Camel:
This is the old 2003 boxing, not the new one from 2021. I received it as a gift in 2011, so it’s only been in the stash for a bit more than ten years. It represents the plane of Cat. Ronald Sykes, DFC, in 1918.
This was mostly built during recovery from surgery, and I’ll get my excuse out of the way up front – I can’t focus my eyes very well at close distances. That’s why I chose to work on something that doesn’t have very much fine detail on it.
This is the Polar Lights 1/1000 ‘Romulan Battle Cruiser’, POL897/12. Of course you all know that this ship is basically a Klingon D-7, because as I understand it, the original Romulan Bird of Prey model was lost/misplaced/destroyed/unavailable after the first season. (The remastered version of ‘The Enterprise Incident’ uses a computer-generated BoP in place of one of the D-7s, but we won’t go there.)
A lot of people online seem to really hate this stuff. Others report that it works fine. I’m somewhere in between, so just to confuse things, here is my experience with using it, but no real conclusions.
Stuff I like:
Easy to spray. Put it in a large-nozzle airbrush, crank it up to 20psi, and hose it on. Thinning (with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner) is not needed, but you can dilute it down a bit if you like.
Water cleanup (mostly.) A bit of thinner makes it clean up easier.
Dries to a very smooth surface.
Available in lots of colors. (Skeleton Bone, Ultramarine, 4BO Green, White, etc.)
Can be mixed with Vallejo Model Air/Model Color and presumably other acrylics.
Can be brushed on with good results.
Dries pretty rapidly.
Can be lightly dry-sanded to remove runs and goobers.
Stuff I don’t like:
Dries on the airbrush needle tip something awful. Adding flow improver doesn’t seem to help much.
Tends to pool at inside corners, and pull away from outside corners.
Needs a fairly high pressure and large nozzle to spray, which could be an issue if you’re trying to paint detail. (But then, why are you using a primer for that anyway?)
Doesn’t adhere very well to bare plastic, even after pre-washing. It sticks great to Tamiya spray can primer, but if it’s already primed. . .
Doesn’t like being wet-sanded. Tends to come off in sheets.
Hard to clean if left to dry on a paintbrush.
None, as I stated up top. I’ve been using this most recently because it was the right color. I won’t go so far as to throw it out, and for small spot-fills using a brush it’s pretty good. It’s thinner than the grey Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer in the square bottle, and sometimes that’s the consistency you need. I just haven’t been able to get consistent results using it as a primer for plastic.
It’s possible that the formula may have been updated since I bought this bottle several years ago. And as always, your results may differ from mine.
Due to some upcoming projects by the Biological Research and Freaks of Nature department, we expect there will be no updates for a few weeks. (Last time they tried something like this — whatever ‘this’ is — we had Animal Control in here for two months trying to get rid of all the frogs.) So here’s a couple of photos to document current progress.
Tenor uke neck, in progress, some rough carving done on one side. Hard to see here, but he neck does taper from the 14th fret down to the nut. (when viewed from above.) Nut width is planned to be about 1-7/16″.
The Polar Lights 1/1000 Romulan Battle Cruiser, which also includes alternate parts and decals for a Klingon D7. This will be a Klingon version. Lots of discussion as to what the ‘correct’ colors are. Plan is to use three tones of grey, unless it looks bad, in which case I’ll do something else. The color coat should cover those white specks on top of the hangar bay with no trouble.
Starting a tenor, Spanish cedar neck. The plan is to use the Hana Lima ‘Ia plans (since they worked well last time) with a Spanish heel. I have some Engelman spruce for the soundboard, and East Indian rosewood for everything else. But for now, I just have a mess of glue.
I thought I had a photo of the scarf joint glueup, but I can’t seem to find it now. It wasn’t important anyway. Scarf joint was cut on the table saw using an angle jig, and smoothed with a block plane. It still needs to be thinned down a little bit.