Nothing inside

Hand resawing. Possible but not recommended.

body split

That took what seemed like forever.

 

Not the greatest job; here’s where I had some blade wandering. This may need the Saf-T-Planer to clean it up.tearout

 

And here’s the piece that was cut off. I’ll use it to make a control cavity cover. At least that’s the plan.thin part split

Carousel repair

Not much on the bass recently, but I finally got this thing rebuilt.

(Original post about it is here.)

Carousel, repaired

Those are 10″ candles.

It’s really rather bulky. Here’s a closeup of one of the snowmen – their hats needed touchup, and this guy got new buttons.

snowman

Will it go round in circles?

I replaced the hub at the top with a thinner piece, built a new spinning deck, and added a bearing to the top of the shaft. It still doesn’t work as well as I’d like, but at least it’s functional.

Bass neck started

I thought I had a taper cutting jig somewhere around here. (Blade guard removed for photo.)

Bass neck taper jig

The jig flexes a bit, so I didn’t get the greatest cut.

Bass neck scarf joint

I think I can make it work anyhow. Needs cleanup with a plane. (Hand planing maple. Ugh.)Bass neck scarf joint 2

That truss rod in the back will be included later.

Slow going

Well, even with wedges to hold the saw kerf open, this is taking forever. . .

more resawing

 

. . . so I cut out a body template from some MDF I had.

bass body template

I still need to clean it up around the neck area, but I want to make the neck first so I know what size pocket to cut. But hey, progress!

Resaw the Hard Way

I know there must be better ways to do this, but they all seem to involve large bandsaws, which I don’t have.

Resawing the hard way

First you cut around the edges with the table saw (which really needs a tall fence to do it right) then use the resulting kerf as a guide for the handsaw. Simple, right? I figure if I take a few strokes every time I walk by, I’ll be done in a month or so.

In the future, I’ll try to remember to do this before gluing the halves together.

Doesn’t look like much…

…but buried somewhere in there is a short-scale electric bass. Probably.

DSCN1729

maple on top for the neck, African mahogany (probably Khaya) for the body.

Should be enough for at least two bodies, or a body and some necks. You have to leave at least six feet of length at the lumberyard, so I had to buy the whole thing. (I already had the maple.)

Calling it Done

Well, I need to adjust the action at the nut a bit, but otherwise I’m calling this one complete.

T2 in case

Ignore the foot.

Yeah, it has some flaws. But you can’t really see them in these photos.

T2 vertical

T2 bridge

The saddle is compensated. It’s supposed to look like that.

First sound sample is available here. Pay no attention to the crummy playing; I was tired. Recorded straight into the computer via dynamic microphone; no filtering, reverb, or anything.

Enough with the shellac, already

I am not 100% happy with this (I never am) but I’m not going to do more on it.

The back isn’t too bad, for the most part. There are a couple of dull patches and lumpy areas, but if I mess with it more, it’ll just get worse.

Back finishing done

I finally got the spot on this side to take shellac. I ended up just wiping it on with a very small bit of cloth, instead of the traditional muneca, which was taking off as much as it was laying down. Need more practice, obviously.

Bass side polished

I removed the tape from the fretboard and as expected, there is residue all over it. I’ve cleaned the first three frets here, but not the rest.

Fretboard needs cleaning

The top has one area I’m not at all happy with, but I can’t fix it without sanding everything down to bare wood and starting over. And I’m not about to do that. I don’t much like working with spruce tops, so it may be a while before I use the rest of the ones I already have.

Front finishing done