Routed the truss rod slot for the bass.
1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep, and all I did was use a straight bit in the router table. Took 4 or 5 passes and came out pretty clean. I squared up the body end with a chisel but didn’t take a close-up photo. It’ll be hidden anyway.
It’s just a bit deeper than it needs to be – maybe 1/32″. I still need to widen the headstock end for the adjustment nut. Not sure whether I want to use a 3/8″ round-nose router bit, or a round file and do it by hand.
On a side note, it seems that Rocksmith 2014 is a lot pickier about intonation than I am. I know I’m 10 cents sharp at the 17th fret or so, but that’s enough for the software to detect it as a wrong note. So I’m starting to work on correcting it – note the lack of a spring on the low E string above.
Yeah, the real fix is to move the bridge back about a half-inch, but that would mean a new pick guard, and you’ll notice that the output jack is in the way. This was built during a class, and the real lesson is to make sure everything fits the way you want it before cutting holes. Also, check to see that they didn’t send you a Mustang neck instead of a Strat neck by mistake.
This uke came to me with a broken headstock from being dropped.
This is a Gretsch concert ukulele, although the body looks soprano-sized. The label says 9100-L, which the interwebz tell me is a long-neck soprano.
Here’s one of the reasons I haven’t done anything much lately.
Well, also I’ve been putting baseboards in a closet, but this is more interesting.
Dark wood is bocote, the light is cherry. Spray lacquer finish. The dinosaur is about six inches long, to give you an idea of size. The others are a bit smaller, but perspective and junk.
Hand resawing. Possible but not recommended.
That took what seemed like forever.
Not the greatest job; here’s where I had some blade wandering. This may need the Saf-T-Planer to clean it up.
And here’s the piece that was cut off. I’ll use it to make a control cavity cover. At least that’s the plan.
Not much on the bass recently, but I finally got this thing rebuilt.
(Original post about it is here.)
Those are 10″ candles.
It’s really rather bulky. Here’s a closeup of one of the snowmen – their hats needed touchup, and this guy got new buttons.
Will it go round in circles?
I replaced the hub at the top with a thinner piece, built a new spinning deck, and added a bearing to the top of the shaft. It still doesn’t work as well as I’d like, but at least it’s functional.
I thought I had a taper cutting jig somewhere around here. (Blade guard removed for photo.)
The jig flexes a bit, so I didn’t get the greatest cut.
I think I can make it work anyhow. Needs cleanup with a plane. (Hand planing maple. Ugh.)
That truss rod in the back will be included later.
Well, even with wedges to hold the saw kerf open, this is taking forever. . .
. . . so I cut out a body template from some MDF I had.
I still need to clean it up around the neck area, but I want to make the neck first so I know what size pocket to cut. But hey, progress!
I know there must be better ways to do this, but they all seem to involve large bandsaws, which I don’t have.
First you cut around the edges with the table saw (which really needs a tall fence to do it right) then use the resulting kerf as a guide for the handsaw. Simple, right? I figure if I take a few strokes every time I walk by, I’ll be done in a month or so.
In the future, I’ll try to remember to do this before gluing the halves together.
Can you see it yet?
Bass body glue-up
No, neither can I. And now I’m out of glue. Soundboards for ukes aren’t anywhere near this thick.
…but buried somewhere in there is a short-scale electric bass. Probably.
maple on top for the neck, African mahogany (probably Khaya) for the body.
Should be enough for at least two bodies, or a body and some necks. You have to leave at least six feet of length at the lumberyard, so I had to buy the whole thing. (I already had the maple.)